New Zealand

Southland

Southland, the realm of New Zealand below Christchurch, is not a place you go for the cities and the night life. Just because we never found them does not mean Invercargill and Dunedin might not boast superb restaurants, rich cultural experiences and dazzling shopping. Dunedin does have a stimulating and varied regional art gallery and possibly the best jazz CD shop in the Southern Hemisphere. Invercargill boasts, er, um, a lot of infrastructure of value largely to the local farming community.


No, you come to Southland for the scenery, the bushwalks, the interactions with flora and fauna. It’s a gloriously satisfying place to take photos, savour a daily scenic drive, walk often by yourself through cool and mossy forests.


So, with the necessary addition of some Christchurch-area destinations, here are a dozen worthy experiences you can very easily partake of in Southland without enduring a single pillowless night, and with minimal stress on your (possibly) seven decades-old legs.


1)The Catlins Drive and Purakaunui Falls : There are two ways of getting from Dunedin to Invercargill but only one of them is worth your holiday time. It’s the road less-travelled that boasts deserted coastlines, rolling hills and very, very few towns. Leave at least half a day for this trip and be sure to call in at Purakaunui Falls, one of the most charming (and breath-taking) in the whole of the nation.

It’s an easy 25-minute walk from the car park and includes a wet forest and a few lesser falls before you arrive at a viewing platform on the main cascade. Other worthy stops are at the Tokata Lighthouse and the weird fossil remains at Curio Bay.

2) Milford Road and its Myriad Stops: From Te Anau, head north and follow the signs leading to Milford Sound. At least half a dozen points are worth stopping at,

especially the views at

Eglinton Valley, gorgeous mountain reflections at Mirror Lakes

(but a warning – LOTS of huge coaches empty their tourist cargoes here, so you may have to jostle for a good photo angle), and the scenery at Lake Gunn,

a masterpiece of glacial carving.

Later, as we neared Milford Sound, we pulled over at Monkey Creek and Fals Creek for delightful rushing water images framed by majestic snow-capped peaks.

3) Wanaka: We chose Wanaka as a two-day exploration base over Queenstown for several reasons; the surrounding scenery looked more to our taste, accommodation
was a whole lot easier to book and less pricey and we’d been there once before and really liked it. Good choice.

Among the many attractions to enjoy here are the small but very comfortable movie theatre (where we enjoyed a locally-made doco on the surounding peaks and valleys, and a first-rate lavender farm with its own charming café.

Positioned right on Lake Wanaka, the town is full of good restaurants and shops,
and, of course, there is that very famous tree growing right in the middle of the water.

We found a smaller tree photographed by almost no one and that proved a worthy substitute. Almost an hour’s drive east of town is Mt Aspiring NP. Head for Makukituki Valley where several walks begin. No need to do any of them in their entirety – an hour up and back will allow you to experience the tranquility and green splendour of the
rainforest, surely the best reward of all for visiting this island.

4) Te Anau – Kepler Track: We based ourselves for three full days here and it was a wise choice, there’s that much to see. Most of one day was spent on the Kepler Track, which begins just a few kilometres from the town.

Flat the whole way (at least the part we did), the tracks hugs the shore of Lake Te Anau through dense rainforest. Decide how long you want to explore before turning back.

Hard souls who press on will end up walking for 3-4
days, overnighting in cabins with fellow ‘trampers.’

5) Te Anau – Seaplane Flight: Right on the lake is a small office where you can book a seaplane flight. Jill shouted me a flight and what an experience.

Even though it was just 20 minutes long ,we six passengers reveled in glorious views of the surrounding mountains, the lake, even a huge sandstone cliff that was once dozens of metres under the sea. Well worth the $175 fee – the husband (pilot) and wife staff are very helpful and a real hoot.

6) Te Anau – Bird Park. Plan to spend an hour or two at Te Anau Bird Sanctuary (admission by donation). It’s a place where dedicated volunteers take care of birds that are recovering from injury or too old to remain in the wilds.

We witnessed a pair of takahe cavorting amongst the native plants in their own very spacious enclosure. These
attractive flightless birds were thought to be extinct until 1948. There are only a few
dozen on the planet, so it’s quite special indeed to witness them at play.

7) Mt Aspiring NP and its Blue Pools Walk: An absolute must-do in Southland is the very
easy Blue Pools Walk just inside Mt Aspiring NP. You get there via the Haast Pass – Makaroa Road and park in the vast car park (which amazingly will fill up in summer).

The walk is less than two kms each way and includes lush beech forest, a long suspension bridge, azure pools of crystal-clear water and a heart-stopping river surging right past
your lens.

Plenty of native birdlife to enjoy along the way, too.

8) Oamaru: Located south of Christchurch in North Otago,

this small community boasts
restored heritage buildings, well-kept gardens and quirky shopping.

If you are a fan of ‘steampunk,’ you’ll get a kick out of the anachronistic artworks scattered throughout the old town.

9) Moeraki Boulders: It’s a just a ten-minute beach walk to get from the car park north of Dunedin to these perfectly spherical stones ensconced just offshore.

They were formed on the sea bed at least 60 million years ago and are seen almost nowhere else on earth.
It’s a small reserve (just 50 metres of boulder viewing) and if a few dolphins drift close in to play, well, so much the better.

10) Akaroa: Can you image South Island of New Zealand as a French territory? It almost happened. In 1840 a small group of French settlers made their home here; today the town’s older sector still has street names in French.

Dinner at the Madeira Hotel was the best meal I’ve had in years. You’ll have to visit the town’s quite excellent museum located in the 1880 courthouse, take in the sights at a charming lighthouse and discover the nearby and somewhat out-of-the-way little shopping and dining district filled with attractive locals and visitors.

11) Banks Peninsula Drives: Basing in Akaroa, treat yourself to a day of driving fairly aimlessly throughout the utterly bucolic Banks Peninsula,

with its winding roads, cute and empty beaches and gentle views of a farming life still hanging on.

The Hay Scenic Forest offers a 20-minute stroll through preserved native vegetation.

12) Christchurch Botanical Gardens: The only urban locale on our journey, this green oasis on the banks of the River Avon offers enough experiences for at least a half day, probably more.

Whether your floral tastes run towards a formal rose garden, a cool and tranquil water garden or the natural beauty of a fern grove, it’s all here. Strolling from one garden to another is half the fun; often you’ll be wandering along above the river bank and watching punts full of tourists gliding past.

Glasshouses with verdant sub-tropical species or hardy succulents are a special treat, and there are many, many benches all about to stop for a rest.